2021

A few more of my 2021 makes

2021 has been a year of the covid vaccine, celebration of events that couldn’t take place in 2020, health issues, covid infection and symptoms in spite of the vaccine etc…. Thankful this year is over and looking forward to the new year.

Stay healthy in the New Year!
~coffeeteaknits

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The Cozy Neckwarmer Pattern

The Cozy Neckwarmer

Neckwarmer2

Neckwarmer1

The Cozy Neckwarmer is knit flat in the garter knit stitch and in sections. Stitches are picked up and knit for the different sections. The Cozy Neckwarmer also has a short rows section with wrap and turns. Since the neckwarmer is knit in the garter stitch pattern, the wraps don’t need to be picked up and knit. A single crochet border is added once all the sections are completed and the piece that goes around the neck is joined with the zigzag crochet method. The picture below shows how the Cozy Neckwarmer was knit:

Neckwarmer_November2021a

The Cozy Neckwarmer Pattern (pattern text and images for personal use only)

Yarn: Lion Brand® Comfy Cotton Blend Yarn in Chai Latte and Whipped Cream Colorways
Knitting Needles: circular or straight US #9 and US #7 
Crochet hook: US size 7 or 4.5 mm crochet hook
Gauge: 20 stitches / 38 rows (or 19 garter ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch with US #7 knitting needles
Abbreviations:

  • K: Knit
  • P: Purl
  • Kfb: Knit front and back (knit one stitch first in the front and then knit the same stitch in the back before slipping it off the left needle – 1 stitch increase)
  • K2tog: Knit the first two stitches together on the left needle (1 stitch decrease)
  • pm: place marker
  • rm: remove marker
  • sm: slip marker
  • wyif S1: with yarn in front slip the stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle
  • RS: right side
  • WS: wrong side
  • w&t: wrap and turn – with yarn in back slip the next stitch purlwise, bring the yarn to front and place the slipped stitch back on the left needle and turn to the next row.

With the yarn colorway Chai Latte , cast on 5 stitches with US #9 knitting needles
With US #7 knitting needles knit as follows:

     One stitch increase section:

  • Row 1(RS): K1, pm, K2, Kfb, pm, wyif S1
  • Row 2(WS): K1, sm, K4, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 3 (RS): K1, sm, knit till 1 stitch before marker, Kfb, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 4 (WS): K1, sm, knit till marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Repeat rows 3 and 4 till 32 stitches (or more if preferred) ending with Row 4

    Additional stitch cast on section:

  • Row 1(RS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1, cast on 18 stitches using the knitted cast on method with US #9 knitting needles. There is a total of 50 stitches for the Cozy Neckwarmer now (more stitches can be cast on if preferred).
  • Row 2(WS): (With US #7 knitting needles) K1, pm, K19, rm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 3(RS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 4(WS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Repeat Rows 3 and 4 till the additional section is wide enough to slip over the head and around the neck (I knit the Cozy Neckwarmer about 14.5 inches)

     Additional stitch bind off section:

  • Row RS: K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row WS: Bind off 18 stitches with US #9 knitting needles (removing the marker and switch back to US #7 knitting needles) K1, pm, knit to marker, wyif S1

     One stitch decrease section:

  • Row 1(RS): K1, sm, knit to 2 stitches before marker, K2tog, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 2(WS): K1, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Repeat these two rows till 5 stitches are left on the needle ending with Row 2
  • Row RS: With US #9, bind off all stitches and remove markers

     Short rows section:

  • Row 1(RS): With US #7 and starting from the cast on edge, pick up stitches all along the bottom of the knitted piece ending at the bind off edge. For the Cozy Neckwarmer, 122 stitches were picked up.
  • Row 2(WS): K1, pm, knit to 1 stitch before last, pm, wyif slip the last stitch
  • Row 3(RS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 4(WS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 5(RS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 6(WS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 7(RS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 8 (WS): (Set up row for short row shaping) K1, sm, [K5, pm] repeat […] 7 more times, K20, pm, K20, [pm, K5] repeat […] 7 more times, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 9 (RS): K1, sm, [K5, sm] repeat […] 7 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 6 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 10 (WS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 6 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 6 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 11(RS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 6 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 5 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 12 (WS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 5 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 5 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 13 (RS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 5 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 4 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 14 (WS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 4 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 4 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 15 (RS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 4 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 3 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 16 (WS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 3 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 3 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 17 (RS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 3 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 2 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 18 (WS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 2 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 2 more times, rm, w&t
  • Row 19 (RS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 2 more times, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 1 more time, rm, w&t
  • Row 20 (WS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 1 more time, K20, sm, K20, [sm, K5] repeat […] 1 more time, rm, w&t
  • Row 21 (RS): [K5, sm] repeat […] 1 more time, K20, sm, K20, sm, K5, rm, w&t
  • Row 22 (WS): K5, sm, K20, sm, K20, sm, K5, rm, w&t
  • Row 23 (RS): K5, sm, K20, sm, K20, rm, w&t
  • Row 24 (WS): K20, sm, K20, rm, w&t 
  • Row 25 (RS): K20, rm, K60, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 26 (WS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 27 (RS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 28 (WS): K1, sm, knit to marker, sm, wyif S1
  • Row 29 (RS): Bind off with US #9 removing all markers

    Last add on decrease section (left side of the knitted piece):

Lastaddonleftandright

  • With US #7 knitting needles, pick up 11 stitches from the cast on edge as shown in the image above
  • Row 1 (WS): K10, wyif slip the last stitch
  • Row 2 (RS): K1, K2tog, knit till the last stitch, wyif slip the last stitch
  • Row 3 (WS): Knit to last stitch, wyif slip the last stitch
  • Repeat rows 2 and 3 till 5 stitches left ending with the WS row
  • Row 4 (RS): Bind off with US #9 knitting needles

     Last add on decrease section (right side of the knitted piece):

  • With US #7 knitting needles, pick up 11 stitches from the bind off edge as shown in the image above
  • Row 1 (WS): K10, wyif slip the last stitch
  • Row 2 (RS): Knit till 3 stitches before last, K2tog, wyif slip the last stitch
  • Row 3 (WS): Knit to last stitch, wyif slip the last stitch
  • Repeat rows 2 and 3 till 5 stitches left ending with the WS row
  • Row 4 (RS): Bind off with US #9 knitting needles

With US size 7 or 4.5 mm crochet hook, single crochet all around the piece with the Whipped Cream yarn colorway. 

Wash and block the knitted piece

Join the two sides of the additional cast on and bind off sections with the zig zag crochet method
zigzagcrochet


~coffeeteaknits
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The Comfy Hat Patterns

There are some knit stitch patterns that look just as good on the right side as they do on the wrong side. It is so with the twisted seed stitch knit pattern. So I knitted the Comfy Hats with this twisted seed stitch pattern, one with the right side on the outside and the other with the wrong side on the outside. The Lion Brand® Scarfie yarn is warm and comfortable making it the right hat to wear this time of the year. Both hats were knitted bottom up and in the round with a 1 x 1 rib knit stitch pattern folded cuff, a body with the twisted seed stitch pattern, and crown shaping. 

There are two patterns down below for the two hats. The patterns are mostly similar but with a few modifications. These patterns are only for an adult medium hat size. These hats have not been graded for different sizes but the pattern can be easily adapted to different sizes by increasing or decreasing the number of cast on stitches or by increasing or decreasing the number of the pattern repeats.

The Comfy Hat Patterns (text and images for personal use only)

Yarn: Lion Brand® Scarfie Yarn in the Cream/Silver colorway
Knitting Needles: US #7 and US #9 circular knitting needles
Gauge: 17 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch before blocking and with US #7 knitting needles
Abbreviations:

  • K: Knit
  • P: Purl
  • RS: right side
  • WS: wrong side
  • P2tog: Purl two stitches together
  • K2tog: Knit two stitches together
  • K1B: knit below the stitch on the left hand needle 
  • pm: place marker
  • rm: remove marker
  • sm: slip marker
  • BOR marker: beginning of round marker
Comfy Hat Pattern 1Comfy Hat Pattern 2
With US #9 cast on 88 stitches using the cable cast on method, slip stitches on to US #7 circular knitting needles, place a BOR marker and join the round With US #9 cast on 88 stitches using the cable cast on method, slip stitches on to US #7 circular knitting needles, place a BOR marker and join the round
Folded Cuff (1 x 1 rib stitch):
Round 1: [K1, P1] till the BOR marker, slip marker

Repeat Round 1 twenty-four more times (about 4 inches in length)
Folded Cuff (1 x 1 rib stitch):
Round 1: [K1, P1] till the BOR marker, slip marker

Repeat Round 1 twenty-four more times (about 4 inches in length)
Body (Twisted Seed Stitch Pattern):
Setup Round: [purl 10, K1, pm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker, slip the BOR marker

Round 1: [purl till 1 stitch before marker, K1, sm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker, slip the BOR marker

Round 2: [K1, K1B till 1 stitch before marker, K1, sm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker

Round 3: [purl till 1 stitch before marker, K1, sm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker, slip the BOR marker

Round 4: [K1B, K1 till 1 stitch before marker, K1, sm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker


Repeat Rounds 1 – 4 seven more times
Body (Twisted Seed Stitch Pattern):
Setup Round: [purl 11, pm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker, slip the BOR marker

Round 1: [purl to marker, sm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker, slip the BOR marker

Round 2: [K1, K1B till 1 stitch before marker, P1, sm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker

Round 3: [purl to marker, sm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker, slip the BOR marker

Round 4: [K1B, K1 till 1 stitch before marker, P1, sm] repeat this 7 more times till the BOR marker

Repeat Rounds 1 – 4 seven more times


Crown Shaping:
Round 1: [purl till 3 stitches before marker, P2tog, K1, sm] repeat this 7 more times, slip BOR marker

Round 2: [K1, K1B till 2 stitches before marker, K2, sm] repeat this 7 more times, slip BOR marker

Round 3: [purl till 3 stitches before marker, P2tog, K1, sm] repeat this 7 more times, slip BOR marker

Round 4: [K1B, K1 till 1 stitch before marker, K1, sm] repeat this 7 more times, slip BOR marker

Repeat Rounds 1 – 4 three more times


Round 17: [P2tog, K1, sm] repeat this seven more till BOR marker, slip BOR marker

Round 18: Knit all the stitches removing all markers till the BOR marker, slip the BOR marker

Round 19: K2tog till the BOR marker, remove BOR marker, break about 6 inches of the working yarn and thread it through a tapestry needle. Insert the tapestry needle with the working yarn into the remaining stitches, pull tight and secure yarn


Weave in the ends and wash hat.
Crown Shaping:
Round 1: [purl till 3 stitches before marker, P2tog, P1, sm] repeat this 7 more times, slip BOR marker

Round 2: [K1, K1B till 2 stitches before marker, K1, P1, sm] repeat this 7 more times, slip BOR marker

Round 3: [purl till 3 stitches before marker, P2tog, P1, sm] repeat this 7 more times, slip BOR marker

Round 4: [K1B, K1 till 1 stitch before marker, P1, sm] repeat this 7 more times, slip BOR marker

Repeat Rounds 1 – 4 three more times


Round 17: [P2tog, P1, sm] repeat this seven more till BOR marker, slip BOR marker

Round 18: [K1, P1 till marker, rm] repeat till the BOR marker, slip the BOR marker

Round 19: P2tog till the BOR marker, remove BOR marker, break about 6 inches of the working yarn and thread it through a tapestry needle. Insert the tapestry needle with the working yarn into the remaining stitches, pull tight and secure yarn

Turn the hat inside out, weave in the ends and wash hat.

Yarn and a loom

My interest in weaving started more as a way to reduce the amount of yarn I had but now it has grown into a genuine interest in this craft. Weaving dates back to the paleolithic era and is much older than knitting or other fiber related crafts. In 2019 when I got a rigid heddle loom, I found myself learning about warp and weft** and trying out various combinations of plain weaving first with whatever yarn I had on hand and then with yarn bought specifically for weaving. 

Since weaving has been around for so long, there are many different types of weaving patterns other than plain weaving. Other weaving patterns with a rigid heddle loom include soumak, leno, tapestry, and many more. The loom with two heddles and pick up sticks makes double width weaving as well as various twill weave patterns possible. I’ve just begun to discover all these various weaving patterns and combinations.

I find weaving to be much faster than knitting or crocheting. Large projects such as blankets or wraps can be woven in a matter of days rather than months. Weaving has also reduced my yarn stash. Although I still prefer knitting sweaters, hats etc., it is a relief to be able to weave the larger projects quickly. Since I have only one rigid heddle loom I can only weave one project at a time.

Weaving, however, requires more finishing afterwards than knitting or crocheting. For someone who likes seamless knits with minimal finishing, finding the motivation to finish the woven pieces can be quite a task. Also, unlike knitting or crocheting where most of the leftover yarn is left intact, discarding some of the warp yarn still bothers me. Even with these minor drawbacks, I find the craft of weaving very interesting and look forward to learning more about it.


** warp yarn runs lengthwise and is held under tension whereas the weft yarn runs side to side and is inserted by the weaver.

~coffeeteaknits

Summertime Dishcloths

Most summers my sweater knitting with wool or other yarn slows down. I usually weave more or try to knit with cotton yarns during this season. Although this season is more a time for yarn and a loom for me (more details in the next post), I have knitted a few dishcloths including these Summertime Dishcloths. Summertime dishcloths are knit flat from bottom up in a combination of garter stitch and twisted seed stitch pattern.

The Summertime Dishcloths Pattern*

Yarn: Loops & Threads Capri in Apricot colorway for the dishcloth 1
Yarn: Premier Home Cotton in Jelly dots colorway for the dishcloth 2
Knitting Needles: US #8,  and US #10 circular needle for the dishcloth 1
Knitting Needles: US #7,  and US #9 circular needle for the dishcloth 2
Crochet hook: 4.5 mm for the dishcloth 1; 4.0 mm for the dishcloth 2
Gauge: garter stitch pattern – 18 stitches/ 4 inches for the dishcloth 1; 17 stitches/ 4 inches for the dishcloth 2

Abbreviations:

  • K: Knit
  • RS: right side
  • WS: wrong side
  • wyif S1: bring working yarn to the front before slipping the next stitch (in this pattern slip the last stitch)
  • K1B: Knit one stitch below the stitch that is on the left needle
  • [….]: repeat of stitch pattern within a row

Cast on 31 stitches with US #10 needles for the dishcloth 1 or US #9 for the dishcloth 2. Then with US#8 knitting needles for the dishcloth 1 or with US#7 knitting needles for the dishcloth 2 knit as follows: 

  • Row 1 (WS): Knit all stitches to 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row 2 (RS): Knit all stitches to 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row 3 (WS): Knit all stitches to 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row 4 (RS): Knit all stitches to 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row 5 (WS): Knit all stitches to 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row 6 (RS): K2, [K1B, K1] till 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row 7 (WS): Knit all stitches to 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row 8 (RS): K1, K1B, [K1, K1B] till 1 stitch before last, wyif S1

Repeat Rows 1 to 8, 7 more times ending with Row 8

  • Row (WS): Knit all stitches to 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row (RS): Knit all stitches to 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row (WS): Knit all stitches to 1 stitch before last, wyif S1
  • Row (RS): Bind off loosely in knit stitch pattern with a US #10 knitting needle for the dishcloth 1 or US #9 knitting needles for the dishcloth 2 

Insert a 4.5 mm crochet hook for the dishcloth 1 (or 4.0 mm crochet hook for the dishcloth 2) in the last remaining stitch and single crochet all around the dishcloth.

(Optional) – For the hanging loop, chain 15 and slip stitch into the next single crocheted stitch on the crocheted border.
Finish the dishcloths by washing, blocking and weaving in the ends.


text and images for personal use only.

~coffeeteaknits